Tuesday, December 31, 2013

TARACLIA “AIN’T” JUST CHICKENS AND DONKEYS

I have posted plenty of pictures of donkeys and chickens but let me introduce the modern side of Taraclia.

Such an interesting mix!

My co-volunteer said she’s seen so many changes in just one year she’s been here, including great sidewalks throughout town.

We now have 2 new grocery stores, it has changed my life. I am eating 10 times more healthy and making food I love – mostly cooking for myself now, host mother is making only 2 meals (we pay per meal). I suspect I will be gaining some of the enormous amount of weight I loss (good but not so much, I wouldn't recommend this way to anyone, I spent about 6   months sick and unable to eat!)
GRAND OPENING! Big party in town!
 
 
Little did I know another was opening in 3 weeks later! As great as this, I have a feeling all the little markets are going to have a tough time competing.


I prefer that one, more choices but more importantly they weigh fruits and veggies for you! The other you’re on your own, the scale requires you to know the code for that item, it’s on a list but of course I can’t read it. Oh by the way, these stores are Romanian chains, the means lots or Romanian labels. This leaves my partners (one fluent in Russian the other doing great learning) at a disadvantage – WELCOME TO MY WORLD PEOPLE – ISN’T FUN IS IT!?! I know that the experience of opening a package with a different product than what I thought it was will someday make me good shopper, and hopefully a passable cook – as best as I can with only a hotplate, but really, I can get almost any ingredient I want, just gotta figure them out (forget Mexican spices – they do NOT like spicy around here). Thankfully brother Jim and Sharon have sent me chili spices, this allowed me to make FAJITAS the other night.

We have Snickers, M&Ms, Lipton Ice tea, Activia yogurt,  cakes and ice cream (oh nooooo!!!),bags of frozen veggies, Ramon noodles (not such a good thing but they're handy), and lots of soft toilet paper, paper towels, "spounge bob square pants" napkins, sensodine toothpaste, all kinds of fancy makeup and lotions.... too to name just a few things. But the most exciting thing is the VEGGIES and FRUITS! Until now the small markets had a limited variety as well as a limited supply. It may have just a few plates on top of the deli with a handful of oranges and Bananas that won’t be there the next time you visit Now LOOK AT THIS!
 
My first green salad, HEAVEN ON EARTH! There is real lettuce here! For some reason, despite the soil that is known to be some of the richest in the world, they don’t have it. We are fed cabbage until it’s coming out our ears and it is the base “greens” for salads. There is still a huge lack of salad dressing, word is there is one store in the city that has it, I will stock up next trip.  They use mayonnaise EVERYTHING, including as salad dressing. Yuck. Fortunately there are marinated carrot and pepper salads that have enough of a dressing and I throw in some oranges and apples – oh what a joy.
Also notice the pork chop. Up until now I have not used a fork and knife ever. Everything is ground!!! I often wondered where are the chicken breasts? Pork Chops? Steaks? Figured they grind them up but ooooooh the other body parts make it onto our plates, the chicken foot in my soup was my favorite (no I didn't eat it!!!). When there is something with a bone EVERYTHING is eaten off of it. Clean as a whistle. When they see how much us Americans leave on the bone they look at us crazy and say “you’re done?” Understandable, how much hunger has this part of the world seen over the centuries?

If there is one lesson I hope I forever hold onto from this experience is to never ever forget the pure joy of finding a bin of mushrooms or a package of lettuce. Shopping with Sylvia and Marjory, oh the ooohss and aaahhhs of us finding these simple things.  It is easy to understand the joy an orange brought to a child on xmas 100 years ago.

So here is TARACLIA (and introduction to Moldova) located way down south and almost on the Ukraine border on the East, not far from Bulgaria south of us. The west borders Romania. Recently we were banned from traveling in the Ukraine, lots of tension and riots there, many want to join the European Union but Russia is fighting that. Not sure why…. But Russia threatened to shut off oil supplies to both Ukraine and Moldova should they join the EE. Peace Corps keeps an eye on this very closely making sure we all will have heat should this happen. At this time we are allowed in the country but must stay out of the capital where the problems are. I plan on visiting Odessa at some point, it’s on the Black Sea and is supposed to be absolutely beautiful. It is about a 4 hour trip from here.  I also want to spend time in Bulgaria. The language is similar to Russian, but even more importantly, some of you many know, I taught myself Bulgarian for over a year at home!! May be able to use some, if I remember any of it, Russian in one ear pushes Bulgarian out the other.

TARACLIA is about 1/2 way between the bottom and where the country spreads out to the east.

The capital is Chisinau and it is in the center of the country, 3.5  - 4 hours away, that is where Peace Corps office is. One floor of the PC office is just for PC volunteers, lounge, shower, library, as well as several other rooms. It is great if you visit, just sitting around and you meet people from all over the country. I don’t know if I’ll ever go Northern Moldova, there are many people up there  (I’d love to see) but it’s pretty far for me..

LANGUAGE is such a huge part of who people are in Eastern Europe and wars have been fought over it. There is a section of the country we are not allowed in, too much tension still. They want to break away and be part of Russia. Presently they have a different government than “Moldova” government.

My town is considered a Russian/Bulgarian town. There are groups of Russians throughout the country (this is the only Bulgarian one)  the second largest city, Balti, up north, is mostly Russian. Now interesting, there is a prejudice against us Russian speakers. I am told that though many people know it they won’t admit it. This makes it difficult for us Russian speakers in the city since they officially speak Romanian. I witnessed this prejudice twice so far. And here I try SO HARD to speak the Russian! Only to be ignored several times!

OK, so…. modern Taraclia
COMPUTER STORE!
 
This store has every kind of home supply you need; towels, blankets, kitchen supplies.... and they  know me now and know I don't speak the language. they are wonderful, make sure they say a few English words and understand  me when I "act out" what I want.

This store has refrigerates, microwaves, toasters, furniture... limited supplies!! It's  interesting, often their items are a bit "old" designs. The microwaves have the old fashion knobs that turn.

 
Lots of banks in town. My bank is on the right. Try explaining, in Russian, "my ATM card was sucked into the machine"!!  The left is a book store, one of a few that sells office supplies and school supplies. there is SUCH a limited selection of these things. I try to buy them when in the city but I have to use my own money so it's hard to find a balance. Luckily my partner has a printer (NEVER throw away paper that still has a blank side-her husband works in an office and takes home used paper for us) tests can be two per page, cut in half, or just written on the board, since students write in their "bluebooks" there is no need for students to all have one.  Flashcards, also done on the back sides of used paper, 4 per page (usually hand-drawn) or even 6! Students see well enough when you hold them up, or walk around the room.... always think think think, what is a way we can do this without using paper of as little as possible!  
 
 
Government building where Mayor's office is


Sylvia and I meet here every Saturday for PIZZA!!! AND it is AWESOME!


 
Our police cars are SO CUTE! Don't ask about ambulances - they're interesting to see, from small vans to "station wagons" I peaked in one that had a door open, there was a cot and a blanket. That's it. Sylvia was in a horrible accident, while she waited at the side of the road for the Peace Corps to come to her she watched as they piled about 20  people in, no neck braces, boards to carry them, nothing.

Behind him is one of our "mini-malls" with a bank and stores.

 
House of culture where performances are
 
In center of town is  beautiful  monument for WWII
 
 
Now add in our internet park, library, post office, hospital (not too sure of the quality care), hospice (where Sylvia works), university, outside market, coffee shops (Sylvia and Marjory and I  meet often at one)...

 
...well I've said this before and I'll say it again, WOW DID I GET LUCKY to be in this town!! Life is hard sometimes but there are lots of little luxuries to help get through them.
 
HAPPY  NEW YEAR! May 2014 bring all of us happy times, good fortune, great health, and plenty of fruits and vegetables - oh and M&Ms (written in Russian but the same dancing peanut M&M guy on the front). For us in the US there are so many things that we take for granted, such as supermarkets and all the food available to us all year round.  Please, do me a favor, on your  next visit just stop for a moment and be thankful  for those things we have an abundance of when so much of the world DOES NOT!  Look at that bin of mushrooms, that pile of lettuce, and smile and feel the joy.
 
 


 

 

 

 

 

Sunday, December 29, 2013

CHRISTMAS IN MOLDOVA!


Well anyone that actually reads my blog may have noticed I haven’t kept up,  teaching 18 classes devoting an additional 2 hrs to each of them outside of class (as all teachers know leaving class doesn’t mean you’re done), Russian studying and tutoring, 2 hours to do hand-washed of laundry, sometimes no hot water –  an hour to heat water and wash, an hour back and forth to the store, and a constant sterilizing of my kitchen due to mice well not much time for blogging…. I am on break until Jan 8th and will now make sure I catch up. Heck I don’t know if anyone reads this thing but oh well, it make a good way for me to keep a diary.

My Moldovan Christmas
They celebrate xmas on the 7th, orthodox calendar. They have fake xmas trees and many decorations in stores (American decorations) and this week I see REAL xmas trees and even Christmas branches for sale. However, they are called New Year’s trees. Sorry folks, call it what you want, Santa is xmas not new year's, deal with it.

My host mother put this little tree up,

I was Skyping with my good friend Lori, I brought “her” out to see our tree. Maria (host mother) showed here a santa clause (see him on the bottom?), however she was calling it Mickey Mouse! I don’t know if she was kidding or not but it was pretty funny.

 I was shopping and caught myself singing “I saw Mommy kissing Santa clause…” I realized the store was playing it, surrounded by “xmas” decorations I stopped in my tracks and looked around and thought “uuuhhh where am I?”. A surreal life-moment  - here is another surreal moment – in my bedroom I felt eyes on me, I opened my curtains and there were lined up 4 turkeys looking at me (two were camera shy and jumped off).



 
SKYPING is so cool, how did PC members survive without it? Lori was cracking me up, what are these?? CHRISTMAS GHOSTS! No… they’re just choir boy candles. Skype is cool.



And oh so special to say HI to family, they wouldn’t appreciate this photo that is not-so -flattering but hey, they put me on BIG SCREEN TV – I bet every wrinkle on me looked like crevasses (that's me in the bottom corner)

 

Christmas turned out to be a lovely day (lovely, did I just use that word, lordy I’m getting old). I am SO BLESSED to have site mates, most people don’t share their site with anyone. Marjorie invited Sylvia and I over for - GOD LOVE HER HOMEMADE MAC AND CHEESE -  It was to DIE FOR. Her first experiment making American food, sautéed Brussel sprouts, salad, fruit, and to top it off HOMEMADE BUTTERY COOKIES and HOMEMADE BANANA BREAD!!

Christmas music and eating next to the fireplace….. 2 tiny candy bars for a gift and taking home some tangerines, then a lovely walk home on a beautiful day. Running into students “MERRY CHRISTMAS KIDS” (a boy sang “we wish you a merry xmas….to me in English, wonderful…)  now THAT  my friends is all you really need to have a happy, heartwarming, Christmas. An amazing Peace Corps moment….. Please friends and family, learn from this KEEP IT SIMPLE – it’s not about gifts, it really isn’t.

 
 
BEFORE XMAS
Normally I wouldn’t go to the city, horrible ride (last one 2 people threw up – that is how bad they are) on Marshrukas (vans with 18 seats and 35 people crammed on, not kidding) and add in the fact that Sylvia had a god-awful accident in one (they are death traps and you hear about accidents all the time they are , indeed death traps, most accidents result in numerous  deaths) It takes a LOT to get me on those things for a 4 hour ride  Oh, and when we were in training we had a speaker from the embassy, he actually said “make sure you wear a seatbelt and don’t sit up front” OMG want to hear a room of people die laughing? SEATBELT!? WTF IS THAT? CHOOSE A SEAT? CHOOSE??? You are lucky if you get pushed into ANY seat that opens up! He admitted he had never been on one (no kidding) oh, and be sure to watch your bags and pockets. ARE YOU KIDDING? Bags, they fit wherever your body can find a space. POCKETS? There are stranger’s body parts on top of you you, under you, against you. Someone wants to pick pocket you? If he can MOVE HIS ARMS ENOUGH TO DO THAT then hey he deserves a reward from the closest pocket he can get to.

It’s expensive to stay overnight, to eat, do some shopping buying special supplies to lug back,, and using up a precious vacation day. My best friends were there for the week, their final week, they moved back to America. Their situation was simply intolerable, worse than any of us. . They stuck it out 7 months, pretty amazing considering what they were living with. But I watched our bubbly, always happy Janet, sinking fast, and sick a lot, the PC simply wouldn’t accommodate a move, what a disappointment, two terrific volunteers who gave up so much, going home to the unknown. And for me? ABSOLUTELY heartbroken, they have been my rocks, Janet my pal, who I texted all day when stupid or hard things happened, we Skyped almost every night (still doing this a lot from  the states).
 
I'm not in the habit of taking pictures of skyping  but the Marilyn in the back was priceless and they needed to see what I saw.
 
But low and behold… small miracles DO HAPPEN. I developed a TOOTH ACHE! Not a happy thing but NOW I HAD TO GO IN!!! Turns out my fear of a root canal was for nothing it was a minor problem! Was done so quick I was able to meet them at McDonalds before they ordered! What a miracle if you ask me. Too much of a coincidence.

We went to a really nice restaurant with another volunteer, Lynn. YYYUUUMM CHEESECAKE!!
 
 
When we came out the snow was gently falling. We went to see xmas lights in the city, stunning…
 
MERRY CHRISTMAS JANET AND KC MISS YA TONS
 
 

My cousin said I look Russian in this photo - nnnaahhhh I don't have a fur hat or vodka in my hand
 
 I then shared a luxury hotel apartment with them for the night, I was in HEAVEN.  A tub so deep I stayed in until I shriveled, my hair has not felt so clean since I arrived. My bed was like clouds. And best of all  I was blessed to be with them. Oh and strangely I didn’t know I missed this but WALKING BAREFOOT ON CLEAN FLOORS! That is unheard of here, people are obsessed with slippers, and even the kids leave their shoes at the door and wear slippers to classes. Oh the small luxuries in life. Oh and by the way, though to us, using Moldovan Lei, it was expensive, converted to $$ it was about $49 a night! And this place was AWESOME I swear with the little money i have in the bank I could live very comfortably over here without working for a long time.

Happy holidays to everyone . And to those of you that read these things, thanks for following my story. I hope SOMEONE is reading them, they take a  long time to do! :-)

PS. Dang, my “mama maria” came in and I spit out some short sentences in Russian instead of just grunting an unconjugated verb – (me to eat, you to go to husband house, me to have lots of work)). 
She did say с новым годом! Happy New years, guess it’s a pretty big deal, me I’ll hide in my room.


с новым годом to all of you!!!