"I AM HAPPY" Christmas 2014

There haven’t been many moments on this adventure when the thought “I am happy” has crept its way into my conscious thoughts. I remind myself often that no one said this would be easy. But this past Christmas it happened, I was happy. In fact I think it may have been one of my favorite Christmases, and that is saying a lot considering how much I miss the holidays with family and friends. But this Christmas was full of memorable and unique experiences. What made the difference is that I choose to go to the city several days before Christmas because on the 31^st I would be leaving for an exciting trip to Turkey (no doubt that reason alone moved me up on the happiness scale).

But first…at school there was a Christmas celebration, though their official Christmas is January 7^th. I absolutely love the celebrations, music, dancing, singing, I have perhaps mentioned before, or several times, this is what I will miss most.  And the kids here are way up there on the cuteness scale!

Doesn’t this looks a bit more l like an American Halloween party!!

yes, those are oranges in their hands. Though now with big stores in town they can get oranges, most people don't go to them, too expensive. Children are thrilled to get them, I know this because I attempted to take one, apples by the handful they give me, oranges they don't. And a small bag of candy.

 

 

 

These boys were hilarious to watch "leave my tail alone!"

 

Father Christmas,   hiding behind that beard is Misha, one of my 8^th graders, Great kid but can NOT for the life of him stop talking. He has a bad habit of using Google to write essays and no matter how many times we tell him we KNOW, and they are horrible, he does it again and again. Even has the nerve to proudly read them aloud in class.

 

The elf, if it's possible for a child to have a "crush" on an old lady, he has one on me. In-between classes, though he is not one of my students,  comes into the room to watch me, says nothing, just smiles ands stares.  In the hall he always approaches me with a big smile to shake my hand and says  "hello" over and over, it's all the English he knows.

 

Real life princess...
A note about Moldovan woman and girls. I have mentioned how beautiful they are, you will never ever see a "tom-boy". Pink and purple, bows and ribbons, fancy shoes and high-healed boots, long hair required.... tha

Girls dancing in a line across from a line of boys, I will forever be singing ooohh a a oooohh a a ...with the two lines sliding back and forth, when I see this  picture

Is this not one of the most beautiful girls you've ever seen!

 

I went to a neighboring village for a seminar, after huffing and puffing for days about NOT wanting to go, I gave in only because I knew I could submit it as an educational “event” on one of my 25 (what feels like 125) page PC reports. This IS a government job after all, we are not exempt from all of the regulations and paperwork that comes with that fact. So early in the morning I dragged myself in the cold and through the mud, only to find a wonderful surprise, it wasn’t one of the NIGHTMARE vans we have to ride everywhere, it was a fancy, comfortable, private van. OK, granted, like everything in Moldova, there was something wrong with it, two men sat on the frozen ground with the tire off for a while, and when riding a hammer fell and almost hit my head (because the container holding it fell off the wall). Little did I know I was in for a great treat  ahead …. But that’s me, I always have to complain first.

Many English teachers from this area went. I watched some, from the corner of my eye , listening to my partner and I speaking, no doubt seeing if they could actually understand the language they teach outside of their classrooms.  Not unusual that people stare at us English speakers. I suspect, on pubic transportation, those that have had English in school, are testing their skills for the first time. That, or it's because, when several of us are gathered, we are LOUD AMERICANS.

First we sat in on a class (tough job – 45 minutes watching one class). Take note, this classroom has a projector (as well as CD player to listen to music that went along with the lesson). There are also appx. a dozen students, whereas we have appx 25 per class... nice....I can tell you this, I  can't stop cheating at desks with 2 children each, what a nightmare with a group at one table.

 

And then we convened for a meeting to discuss our experience

Much to my surprise the kids put on a show for us. I was surprised when they did a “skit”  about the “traditions” of an American Christmas (except for the witch they had running around, it was accurate). They sang several of our carols, much to my embarrassment, I started crying and had to turn away. My partner was rather confused. I explained later, imagine if she were in America and the biggest Moldovan holiday was happening. You are  very, very homesick.  You went to a work meeting (that you complained about attending) and the Americans sang traditional Moldovan holiday songs. Not only would you be surprised and delighted, you too might cry.  I was just as thrilled with Moldovan traditional music they performed.

They even walked around with a stocking to select a gift from. OK – my gift was a tacky diamond broach made in Taiwan, which will be “special” to me, but I later asked if they had anything “Moldovan” and I was given a lovely little Moldovan ornament (although probably also made in Taiwan).

I smiled to myself as I was thinking “these kids had no idea they have an American in their audience”. I told a teacher to let them know, and she was thrilled.

Then a feast was served for lunch.

Left: chicken soup, variety of sausage (oh there is SO MUCH sausage here).
Right and down middle: chicken soup, Potatoes (like our wedges), beet salad (very good), carrot salad (my favorite)with a type of meat patty (pork, I hope) around it, very good.  Stuffed and cooked peppers, plachenta (NO gathering is complete without - fried bread with stuffing of cheese or fruit in middle), white bread (always white only). Not pictured plenty of cognac and Champaign to go around for the many toasts.  yes, even at work events.

So did I learn a lesson about complaining? 45 minutes of work, a feast for lunch, Christmas show, Christmas gift…. Probably not…

Oh… and I earned myself a certificate! Not sure what it says but here it is….

Chisinau was decorated beautifully and full of activities. As you can imagine, there is a special connection between all volunteers, “we’re all in this together”, but because we are so spread out, and in different programs, some of us don’t see each other often.  Because I don’t travel to the city often, this has left me feeling pretty disconnected with my group of M28s (Moldova 28, 27 just left, 29 just arrived). But this Christmas many volunteers were in the city and I happily became part of the gang.

 

 

The gal on the left, that is Sydney, more than anyone she has kept me connected with other volunteers. She is young enough to be my daughter be we have become good pals. Next to her is Gina. We didn't know each other very well at this time but by the end of the week we were good friends.

 

 

 

Christmas Eve Sydney, Gina and I walked to the center just as it was getting dark. We were thrilled at what we discovered. We ooohhhed and aawwwed, we laughed, sang, shopped, drank mulled wine.

 

This isn’t just any pizza, it’s our CHRISTMAS pizza (and beer). As we ate our pizza we spoke about how depressed we had been,  but that night changed everything.  It more than cheered us up, it gave us “Christmas Spirit”.

 

What gave us the most laughs is this…..

Notice how Mary and Joseph are so real? Now look at the kings! WHAT were people thinking when this was created? I’ve never seen this kind of thing in America, can you imagine the protests! so it’s even funnier when you consider this is a former communist country.

 

 

 

Crossed eyes? Can angels get glasses?

Now we know this is NOT politically correct, but someone dubbed this king the “terrorist king”.

Christmas Eve another volunteer, Kevin, joined us and the 4 of us headed to a catholic Christmas Eve mass. I haven’t been to mass in more years than I can count but I thought it would be a great experience. As we approached, outside the church was a Christmas tree with a statue of Mary beautifully lit, inside the church it was dark lit only with candles, the conjugation was singing “silent night” in english. It was beautiful.

But then the lights came on and the mass began. It was odd mix of Romanian, Russian and some English thrown in.  We were in the back “standing room” only. All Catholics know there is a lot of kneeling involved in a mass, including, for many people here, doing so on the floor of the standing-room only section (not me thank you very much). I amused myself throughout the mass watching a little boy pretending he was kneeling when in fact he was only squatting.  I knew it and he knew I knew it as he kept an eye on me each time. Soon I was tired of standing (and watching the boy squat lost it's humor)  and someone near me didn’t smell so good, when communion began, out I went. It wasn’t long before the others joined me. Just another surreal life-moment, a catholic mass on Christmas Eve in a small Eastern European country.

Outside concert with traditional music. we danced the (sorry for the misspelling) hoorah (dance) with many locals! Very fun.
 

 

Christmas Day. Christmas started with a breakfast at a Turkish restaurant, fitting since i would be leaving for a trip to Turkey in a few days. Yes it seems strange for a breakfast,  but they had a breakfast menu of omelets. Best part was the beautiful latte.

 

A group of us went to a popular Greek restaurant.Turkey? Roast Beef? Kabob? aaahhh whatever... a Christmas meal is a Christmas meal no matter what it is, it’s the company that counts. (see Santa on the table! CHRISTMAS INDEED!)

 

Christmas night I joined 3 other volunteers singing on the main street of Chisinau. I was led to believe it was a “group” that would be singing, hence the reason I agreed to join. Only song I have sang out-loud in decades is “happy Birthday”. When it turned out to be 3 others I thought to myself NO WAY JOSE ARE YOU GETTING ME SINGING IN PUBLIC ON THE MAIN STREET OF A CITY.  But I was pretty much put on the spot, a candle put in my hand. Oh well why not…. At first I felt really stupid, but it wasn’t long before people stopped to listen, took photos, and a child even danced. We attracted people who spoke English. Most of my singing was simply “la la la la” since I had no idea of words after the first verse of each song.  So I admit, it was fun, but yes, as usual, first I did complain. Another surreal-life moment. Singing on the streets on Christmas in a small Eastern European country.

 

A group of us went to a concert. There were several Christmas songs mixed with non-Christmas music. It was beautiful.

 

 

After this we went to a restaurant none of us had been to. It turned out to be a Ukrainian restaurant. They were serving a special -  Turkey! I was visualizing a home-cooked American turkey dinner, stuffing, gravy, mashed potatoes, squash… but not so of course… Turkey was good, surprisingly my first since arriving in Moldova, which is odd considering they are often peeking in my window.

Sydney, Carol and Arun

After dinner we went back to the lights, drinking mulled wine and laughing yet again at the crazy kings. We stayed until the lights went out at midnight then headed back to our hostel. It was a very very fun Christmas day....

The remaining days, before I left for my vacation, was filled with lunches, shopping (I was on a hunt for Russian Christmas decorations, which I found) and  just ol' hanging out… by the way, these actually say “Happy New Years”.

Sydney and I took Kirsten, who is a “newbee” M29, to the mall that she hadn’t seen yet. She had that same WOW reaction I had when I first saw it.  Much to our absolute excitement there was an English speaking movie playing at the theater! (I admit, again, I almost starting crying with pure joy, my first movie, and I am a big movie lover, oh the things we take for granted in America). Making it even better it was a 3D MOVIE!!! The Hobbit. So we sat in the dark, with our chocolate snacks, and 3D glasses, happy as could be… yet another surreal-life moment – 3D “the Hobbit” in a small Eastern European country

 

 

 

 

To top it off was Kentucky Fried Chicken lunch and a Baskin Robins ice cream Sunday. Cost an arm and leg but it was worth it.

Then it was time to be off for holiday travels. So Christmas this year – yes – I said it myself and then out loud for all to hear!   “I am happy”.

This is me being HAPPY. PC lessons learned, happiness isn't guaranteed, when you feel it, acknowledge it, let it creep into your conscious thoughts. Be grateful for those moments, they can be few and far between.... Peace Corps... no one said it would be easy.

This unique Christmas experience  I will hold dear to my heart and will reminiscence upon for years to come…..

And from my much-loved 6th graders.... MERRY CHRISTMAS 2014!

С Рождеством!

 

деньги деньги деньги

Pronounced "dingy" - actually, if said correctly in Russian it's more like "dyengee". As is usual, many don't understand my American accent, even with a simple word like this. Therefor it is  best to add some kind of hand/body motion no matter what I say (this can get embarrassing at times i.e. CAT FOOD = "kushaet meow  meow"). So while saying "dingy" with hands pointing up, I rub fingers with my thumb in a fast motion, this is a motion I suspect means the same around the world...."money money money"

 

Money here is called Leu – sounds like “lay” (bills) and Bani (coins). It still feels like play money, especially the coins, they feel like tin and are as light as a feather. And they’re tiny compared to our coins. Each bill is a different color and gets larger in size as they go up. Makes me wonder how foreigners to America figure out how to tell our bills apart since it’s all green and the same size. We quickly learn that 1s and 100s are difficult to tell the difference between, though a slight different in size they are the same color.  Although American coins are different size, not so here. If I need to give change I dump it all on the counter and let them figure it out.

 

 

On the bills is “Stephan Cel Mare”.

He is the countries “hero”, a prince from the 1400s. There are sculptures of him everywhere as well as portraits of him in schools and public buildings.  Just as “Main Street” is common in America,  Stephan Cel Mare is here.

 The sculpture in the center of my town

 

Though the exchange rate varies, it is usually somewhere around 14 leu per $1. This is an excellent exchange rate. An 85 lei pizza is about $6.00. Although it really is a mistake to convert to $$ when purchasing because it tends to “justify”  spending money on something you probably shouldn't be. Conversation goes something like this.

PCV 1: “1400! Leu! Wow! That is too much!"

PCV 2:  "too much?  it is only $10!"

PCV 1 : "wow! you're right it's only $10! AMAZING"

PCV 1 now purchases herself/himself something that they probably didn't need - or ordered an extra dessert.  In fact, PCV 2 has probably purchased one too, can't pass up the deal.

If you don't think in "leu" terms, you are in big trouble at the end of the month.

PC provides us with a monthly stipend. It is not a lot of money, though it could be thought of it that way if you compare it to the income of many Moldovans. We are given appx 3500 - 4000 a month (left after paying housing, 700 and utilities,  479-1934, depending on the time of year.)  A teacher may make 3000  month but this is BEFORE they pay housing and utilities. Part of the deal with the PC is you agree to live like the people around you.  We are cautioned to not present ourselves as the "rich American" they believe all of us to be.  

Most Moldovan's must supplement their income by a selling fruits and vegetables or handmade goods at the village outdoor market. This is Maria - she is my host mother so I call her "mama maria" to outsiders. That may be cute from a 20 yr old but probably not so from a 54 yr old. In between her hard work harvesting her crops she's sits here tying things into bunches to bring to market. Now what am I doing while she is working away in the hot fields you ask?

Look behind her, that is my Russian studies and a coffee. Though I have been known to stop and  help her. Hey.... I've even tied things such as green onions into bunches of 10, not 9 or 12 (she does check). And I do help in the garden too, but that's hard work, I can last for only so long (heat stroke, blisters, sore back)  - I'd rather study Russian, and that is saying a lot.

Or maybe I'm resting with a friend. I call her " маленький (malinkee) "small, tiny, baby,..." I try to not get attached to animals here, they don't always live a full life, it hurts to think about leaving her and her one-eyed mama behind. but how can I not get attached to this! :-(

Or perhaps I'm entertaining other volunteers (that's Molly and Andrew who came from way up north)

Admiring pretty flowers and birds

 

Or watching stunning sunsets

Perhaps visiting with "mama Maria" and her husband Petre (Peter) when her work is done. 

You don't need to know the language to tell they have great  sense of humor.  This is a moment when I'm  thinking to myself "people speak different languages and wear different clothes but we are all the same"  

 

The eyeless baby doll, for her granddaughter. we had a good laugh.

They were married about 6 months before I arrived. she spends most of her time at his  home. They are always laughing. 

 

This also means our kids are kept busy outside of school in their own fields. Of course this affects their schoolwork.

This is Eugenii working away in his vineyard -  each time I call on him he rambles off something in Russian while squirming in his seat and making a face that is clearly saying "ooohh nnnooooo not me... I don't know!!!" I smile, as all good teachers must do,  and say, for the 1000th time (in an encouraging gentle way)

"IN ENLGISH!!!!!"

 

he's is up there in my "favorite" group.

Unlike Eugenii, who spotted me and yelled with excitement  "HI MISS SANDRA!!!" the child behind him wanted  nothing to do with Miss Sandra.  

There are very few Moldovan families that don’t have a relative working in another country who sends money back, in fact I  met yet another  one today - gone 9 months from his wife and children, sad right? Most are in Moscow. He told me there are 1 million Moldvans in Moscow, there are 3-4 million in Moldova.  Many are in Canada and in the US (I had many in my town in MA). Children are left to be raised by  grandparents, you see many BABUSHKAS with young children. Of course many respect the idea of education, but most believe the child belongs on the farm, and yes, most likely they will stay here and work on the farm.

It is much because of these missing parents that their is so little discipline in the children - or I should say in the teens. I have found the younger kids to be extremely respectful and polite. Not sure exactly when things went wrong but I suspect it was just about the child's 13 birthday. Yes, the  language is different, clothes are different, but a "teenager is a teenager" they are all the same.

Here is Miss Sandra's worst nightmare.... in the back - Andrei - a straight A student (they use numbers, he is a 10), great kid, well-behaved (THANK GOD there are some).

On the left is Eurii, adorable isn't he? ya well I could tell you stores....

Middle, Nakita, every teachers worst nightmare.... (but you can't help but love him - honestly off all students he is my greatesgt "love -hate" relationship).

On the right..... hhhmmm can't remember his name I just know him as the "kid I yanked his ipad out of hands and THUMPED it, not so gentle, on the teachers desk". Thank goodness there was a pile of books to cushion  the landing.

Impish grin? nope.... oh Nakita Nakita Nakita "STOP TALKING, SIT DOWN, PUT IT DOWN, LEAVE HER ALONE!!!!" over and over and over 

Ivan, in the back on the left spends the entire class saying "Miss Sandra you have a boyfriend? Miss Sandra you have any деньги?" "Miss Sandra......" "WHAT IVAN? WHAT DO YOU WANT!? WHAT DOOOOO YOU WANT!?" He loves to  chant "USA USA USA" . I try my best to ignore him, if I react he "feeds off it" and it gets worse.

The 2 boys in the front, not too bad.....unless they sit next to Nakita then all bets are off. \

Let me introduce you to Andrei. This week I marched him into the director's office for hitting "Miss Sandra" with a flying coin (thank good ness they are as light as a feather). The director, once again, explained the lack of parents in this country, honestly I know it's a reality but it often feels like an easy excuse for the their behavior. She threatened him with not taking his 9th form (grade) graduation exam, to call the police, to have his parents arrested! I felt terrible, if I knew it would be THIS bad I would have thought twice about it. Somehow I came out of it feeling worse than him... seeing a big tough 15 year old in tears... broke my heart. STUPID KID! this reminded me that a teenager is often still a kid underneath that exterior.  I came here to help children NOT to make them cry, and that made me cry.  

notice there are no girls here? That is not because they are perfect, far from it. But you know girls, they keep the whispers, laughing, giggling and passing notes to themselves. They aren't LOUD and disruptive like the boys. One day all the boys were missing, it was by far the nicest, most relaxed and productive class we have ever had. Sorry boys... but it's TRUE.

So what does this have to do with money, well to sum that up, Moldovan teenager behavior is linked with the lack of  деньги деньги деньги

PEACE CORPS PAY

The money I receive as my monthly stipend (what is the difference between a stipend and pay check, anyone know? I don't) pretty much goes towards food and household items. I rarely have any left at the end of the month. Here's an idea of what costs what.

75 lei for a haircut (about $5); Ticket to the city 70; a toaster 200-300;  Chocolate bar 11-25'; Bottle of ice tea 25; Butter 12;  Cheese  50; 2 chicken breasts (small) 50; and some expensive treats, olive oil for a small bottle  80-100; Peanut butter (NEW to Moldova) a whopping 75 for a very small jar; TP 30; shampoo 80; toothpaste 150; deodorant 85; laundry soap 150,;kitchen cleaner 175; face cream 200; 1 banana 5; one pepper 15; lettuce (if they have it) 40 for just a few leaves (that are wrapped together in plastic). Each day I have an instant coffee – 2.50 a shot.  Broccoli (if they have it) 50 for one “stem” yes ONE stem. Veggies are sold in tiny quantities. One night in a hostel in the city 100 leu.   Oh and there is the small box of kitty snacks I get each week, oh and school supplies such as tape, markers, large paper, pens, photocopies and printing that is done in the center of town that I pay for, and there is candy for the kids as awards and bribes – also some “prizes” such as fancy scissors, paints, notebooks…. it’s worth every penny seeing the excitement and their faces light up – gives me just as much, or more, pleasure to give. Well all and all… It adds up very fast. A car can cost $10,000, yes that is in $$$, around 140,000 leu. Imagine that!

We have a specific bank that the money is deposited in. We get withdrawals from outside “ATMs” just like home, only here they’re called “Bankomats”.  We can also pay inside some stores with an ATM card. But not all, I always keep an emergency 200 hiding in my wallet. Many villages don't have a  bank, PC rule is all PCVs are within an hour from one. sure, easy for  them to say. We have to pay cash to  our families, and small places villages will NOT take ATM cards. And some machines limited the amount you can withdraw, these means 2 trips just to get cash, this can mean 2 2-hour tips to get cash, on those horrific vans. Me... I'm lucky, since I live in a somewhat modern town I have a lovely bank and an ATM on the other side of town.

I made the mistake of forgetting my card and it was sucked into the machine. What an ordeal THAT was to get it back. I had my partner write me a note to explain what happened. It occurred to me that I if handed a note to a bank teller in the US I would set off alarms and be arrested.

 Well that pretty much does it for the story of деньги деньги деньги here in Moldova.  Oh, and yes, we do pay taxes, after all we are American citizens, in fact, we are government employees (and don't we know it, the amount of reports we are required to submit is a nightmare, imagine a 30 page spreadsheet with EVERY student individually evaluated. And that is only one report). We also have a little taken out each pay as “savings”. This money is given to us at the end of service (if you leave early you get what you have saved). I will receive, after taxes, appx $7000. This is considered money to “resettle", but similar to the 500 leu we receive here to "settle" (500 which simply covers a towel and sheets, that's about it)  it doesn't go far, I believe the amount was established many many years ago. OK, so this won't cover the car I will need, moving into an apartment, etc… but oh well…. it is what it is, I am keeping faith that things will work out just the way they are supposed to.  

When I committed to this I knew it would bring financial devastation into my life… and that it has….oh that it has….but I figured out a long time ago that money isn't how you measure success, nor is it the greatest rewards we can earn.  At the end of our lives what truly is important? The money in our pockets we can no longer spend? Or is it memories of loved ones, places that we have been, people we have  met, the laughs, the pain, the tears... easy answer. I'm not worried, I am rich and will only get richer as I live the crazy, difficult, painful, joyous, fun life of a Peace Corps Volunteer.

So here is to a rich life....

На здоровье!! (cheers!)